Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Fragments




After some days of silence, I am back on my blogging schedule forced by an overload of observations that are hanging out inside my brain randomly, and making my effort to ‘rationalize’ is almost painful. Experiences are made firstly through our senses and then processed as a mental exercise. It is on these senses, and on my feelings that I would like to start this brainstorming session today. In this blog entry, organization is something you should not expect- just to make things clear-. Instead, I will write a series of mental pictures.

- On Wednesday, as I was walking back from my lesson in the late afternoon I realized that I was simply ‘walking it out’. I was completely by myself walking on a one of the ridiculously steep streets of Nablus, and I was in a state of total euphoria. The sun had just stopped being unbearable, the city had its usual sober vivacity, and I had just finished a long day working in Askar. Yet, nothing in particular had happened and it was one of these average days in which you feel you do have a routine and it makes you feel safe. While I was in the middle of my euphoria, a man starts following me from the back and when I turn he almost screams ‘your cell phone!’. I know I met the guy before, but my head cannot connect. I look at him confused and say ‘what about it?’. Turns out that he works in the cell phone shop where I left, and forgot, my broken phone to see if I could retrieve my numbers. Inside the shop he gives me my old phone and tells me that I should go with a flash drive to pick up my numbers that are on the computers. I thank him and ask how much I own him. Nothing- I own him nothing, he insists, because it did not cost him money to do me the favor. I am back on the street, and walk to another office where I am giving Italian lessons to a colleague’s friend. I enter the office and he offers me tea. We talk about his interest for Italian and have a one hour lesson. He is very focused and eager to learn. After my lesson we have a chat and I leave. Of course, no money involved. Today, I have another lesson with my Italian student. He invites me for a super nice lunch that we eat at his office but that was cooked by his mother.- I never realized how good it feels to exchange things other than money-

- The conversations that I have been having with people about the process of exiting Israel through Tel Aviv make particularly anxious – (to be continued …)I am seriously concerned, and also seriously worried about getting in trouble with Israel for volunteering in the West Bank. At the same time I find my anxiousness pathetic. I have a Western passport and an embassy that would support me. My imagination can hardly hint to comprehend the sense of powerless and restless that Palestinians experience.

- For a nice break from the simplicity of Nablus’s life, the other volunteers and I decided to spend a mundane night in Ramallah. With the check points opened, Ramallah is a scarce hour away from Nablus; however, the difference between the two cities is striking. The awareness of being constantly checked out on the streets fades away and Ramallah feels more metropolitan, hectic and open. Ramallah has been a ‘base' through the past decades for many of the western activists, journalists and politicians working in the West Bank. Ironically, their presence shaped the city so greatly that Ramallah hardly feels like the rest of the West Bank.
We went out to a beer festival, which was basically a party which included beer, disco light, super western music and a bunch of people dancing around.

- On Friday, one of my palestinian colleagues (Y) invited me to take a little tour around Nablus. It was a simple day, which turned out to be one of my favourites. Y. and his cousin came to pick me up and we ended up having a drink on a little natural riot. The owner of a little coffee shop placed some chairs and table on the water and the location became one of the locals' favorites. We spent the afternoon talking about the Islam. Personally, I feel so detached from organized religion in this period of my life that listening to their interpretation and to the strenght of their belief made me feel confused, as if there was something I could not appreciate in the order of things. While we talk about the balance between good and bad actions that will place individuals into heaven, a bee is flothing around my glass of coke and Y's cousin, noticing that I am bothered kills the bee. I make some reference about Karma, and I start getting questions about my beliefs that up to that point I have not discussed. I answer that I simply try to do my best to be respectful to people around me and that I do 'pray to god', but I am not interested in his name. I guess I would not mind calling it Allah, or Dio. They are confused, but they explain to me how Islam respects all religions.

Storie

Questa e' una delle tante storie che mi capita di sentire in questo periodo che sento di dover condividere.

Questa e' una parte della storia che mi ha raccontato il mio studente di italiano, B. (25 anni), durante la nostra lezione. Questo ragazzo insegna ai bambini del circo di Nablus. Durante questa conversazione eravamo solo in due in un ufficio.

B: Crescendo, camminavamo per la strada in 30. Ero circondato da amici. Poi e' iniziata l'intifada. Uno viene ucciso, l'atro va in galera. Mi sono ritrovato un giorno a camminare per la strada, ed ero solo. Ho perso la speranza. Mi chiedo: 'Perche' io sono ancora vivo? Qual'e' il punto?'
Poi tanto, se perdo la speranza io non importa a nessuno.
Poi ho iniziato a lavorare con il circo ed ho trovato il mio modo per combattere l'occupazione. Il sorriso e' un'arma molto forte.

(silenzio per circa un minuto)

Una sera, ho sentito una bomba. Sembrava vicino la casa di mio cugino. Lo chiamo ma non risponde.
Allora chiamo il vicino. Lui risponde. Chiedo: 'Dov'e' M.' Lui mi dice 'hai sentito la bomba? M. e' morto.' ed attacca il telefono. Io rimango cosi'...

(silenzio)

Poi sono andato all'ospedale per vedere il corpo. Era nella cella frigorifera (??) e quando apro lo vedo. Non c'e' piu' la testa. Chiudo subito.
Non perche' ho paura, non perche' mi fa impressione.
Solo perche' voglio ricordare la bella faccia di mio cugino.

(silenzio)

Portavo sempre al collo la sua foto.

(pausa)

Un girno volevo mostrare il villaggio dei samaritani a due amici francesi. Io vivo 5 minuti a piedi dal check point. quando ero piccolo andavo sempre a giocare li, e' un passeggiata brevissima.
Quel giorno arrivo al check point e i soldati mi chiedono i documeti. Io spiego che voglio solo mostrare il villaggio ai miei amici. Lui vede la foto di mio cugino, mi prende e mi tira su e chiede, in ebraico, chi cazzo e' questo. Mio cugino, dico io. E' perche' hai la foto?. perche' e' morto, rispondo. Il soldato chiede: com'e' morto?
Lo avete ucciso voi, dico io.
Era un terrorista, risponde.
No, era mio cugino, dico io.

(Pausa)

il soldato mi dice: non me ne fraga un cazzo, fatti rivedere qui e ti sparo in fronte.
Non sono piu' tornato li'.

Monday, July 20, 2009

New Peace

Article on the resent peace developments from the New York Times

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/20/world/middleeast/20israel.html?_r=1&hp


Israel’s Religious Right and the Question of Settlements
Middle East Report N°89
International Crisis Group

http://www.crisisgroup.org/home/index.cfm?id=6228&l=1

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Much more than the biggest knafeh in the world.




Today is a very special day in Nablus. 'the most amazing day in Nablus in seven years' to say it with the words that many have used to describe the proportion of the event to me.

Officially, today Nablus is celebrating a record for the Guinness Book with the realization of the biggest Knafeh, a very popular local sweet cheese. An association of local bakers produce a batch of 74x1 m Knafeh. (!!!) The celebration, however, had a deeper undertone. At least three people have explained to me, with similar vocab and attitude, that in Nablus, celebrating in the street has not been possible for a long time, basically since the outbreak of the second Intifada which got heated in Nablus in 2000. My most reliable source when trying understand how people see their situation is repetition. A couple of sentences have been told to me almost exactly in the same form by numerous people. Hearing more than a couple of times the same powerful statement hinted to me that a certain view is shared by many. In my top list of common sentences there is 'We can expect the Israeli army to invade at any time', and 'life is not easy here, but we try to live a normal life, we have to live normal lives'.

The contrast between occupation and normal life creates a strange atmosphere. Palestinians in Nablus are extremelly proud of their culture and their city but there is a sense that many things are just not possible. The occupation is felt in crucial aspects of every day life. For example, a friend was explaining to me how his dad works with wood and just purchased a new machine from China. They are terrified that the machine will not be allow passed the check points, resulting in the loss of a very large investment. He added 'if they don't let it in for some reasons, there is nothing much we can do about it'. Before the Intifada, Nablus used to be the economic center of the West Bank and the beauty and potential of the city gives hope that Nablus might strengthen its position in the future.

Today represented pride and hope for Nablus. The city was in spot light in the the international media and to palestinians in Israel, the rest of the West Bank and in Gaza. Most importantly, the celebration was simply for the the citizen of Nablus themselves.
Together with the other volunteers of PH, I saw the eating of the biggest knafeh from a VIP position: the fourth floor of a mall right above the Knafeh's exposition. The city was packed with people, and highly controlled by soldiers that could be seen right and left with huge guns. The big guns, which I always find extremely intimidating, did not disrupt the enthusiasm. After the prime minister Salam Fayyad himself opened the event, hundred of people were eating Knafeh while thousands filled the streets.

What I had initially imagined a simple street festival, in a city where up to two years ago curfew was mandatory and where people still remember very clearly what it is like to leave inside a house for weeks and weeks, became 'the most amazing day in Nablus'. And it was indeed amazing, I must say.